Saturday, July 11, 2009 - Sunday, July 12, 2009 Homer, AK to Kenai, AK   Today's statistics: Total Distance: Travelogue Total: Average Speed: Total Time:   87 1542 40 2   Miles Miles MPH Hours 7 Minutes

We woke to sun and blue skies again. We fully expected the weather to be colder and more overcast, but we are not complaining! We reversed our tracks out of Homer until we got to Soldotna, then headed west to the coast. We saw 2 moose on the way. It was definitely cooler here and much more overcast. Temperatures were in the mid-60s so it was still pleasant, especially if you were out of the wind. Verna took off for a bicycle ride up the coast and on the way back stopped at an overlook to see the people fishing below. The sign at the overlook designated the areas for “Dip-netting”, so Verna asked a local what that was all about. We learned that yesterday the season for dip-netting began, which is why we saw so many people out there. And next weekend is supposed to be the peak, so it will be even more crowded. Residents of Alaska are allowed to dip-net in designated areas at particular times (non-residents are not even allowed to help the residents in any way). Regulations control the size of the net, but all shapes and sizes are seen. And patrols cruise the beach to keep everyone in line.

Basically the person fishing stands thigh-to-waist deep in the water and rests the net frame upright in front of them (see photo, left). Then they wait for the fish to swim into it. As Verna was walking along the beach, someone was pulling in a red salmon every few minutes. Several people netted flounders, but they were generally released as they were deemed too much trouble to deal with. The campground we were in was located on the bluffs just above the mouth of the river which is where most of the “Dip-netting” activity was, so we got an opportunity to see a lot and talk with many folks about their “Dip-netting” experience. We were please to have been able to learn about this and see it firsthand.

Monday, July 13, 2009 - Tuesday, July 14, 2009 Kenai, AK to Anchorage, AK   Today's statistics: Total Distance: Travelogue Total: Average Speed: Total Time:   160 1502 35 3   Miles Miles MPH Hours 20 Minutes

Today we head back to Anchorage as we retraced our path. We saw 1 moose on the journey. Another sunny day and much less smoke along the bay as we approached Anchorage. Below is a photo of the Anchorage skyline, as seen from the coastal bike path. Tuesday Verna took to the Anchorage bike trails again, this time trying 2 new paths with varying degrees of success. The first part of the first path began in a park and there were many side trails leading to surrounding residential areas. Unfortunately, none of these were marked, so many of them were explored before chancing upon the main route. Once found, it was a fairly straightforward ride west toward downtown as it followed Chester Creek. It was a much nicer ride than the city streets. The second path was at the south end of town and came back up to our camp. This one followed another creek and was nicely secluded from the busy city. At times you felt like you could have been in the wilderness if it weren’t for the faint buzz of traffic in the distance. But again, as the path entered park areas, the various divergent paths were not well marked and many dead-ends followed. It’s all part of the experience, right? But then she encountered the intersection of “Road Closed” and “Road Construction” - and there were no signs directing the rider where to go. Was just this intersection closed or was the road closed for miles? It made for a very long and frustrating day.

Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - Friday, July 17, 2009 Anchorage, AK to Denali, AK   Today's statistics: Total Distance: Travelogue Total: Average Speed: Total Time:   224 1926 37 5   Miles Miles MPH Hours 54 Minutes

Today we drove to Denali, “The Great One.” On the way, there are several pullouts that provide views of Denali, but nothing was visible due to the smoke and haze. We did get to see four Model T Fords that were traveling together. We stopped and talked with them for a long time. They were a mix of Alaskans and folks from the lower 48 states and were out for a jaunt from Anchorage to Paxton, across the Denali Highway (100 miles of dirt), then back to Anchorage. Considering they travel no more than 35 MPH that is a long trip. We got to Denali and the smoke was still present, then the rain began to fall. We had booked 3 days here and hoped it wouldn’t be a total waste. Thursday we woke to cloudy but dry skies so decided to take the drive out to Savage River, which is as far as you can travel in a private vehicle. Just before the river there is an area where you can see Denali on a clear day. Problem was, this wasn’t a clear day. And even on clear days there is often a cloud surrounding Denali, cloaking its presence. According the the park brochure, the peak is visible only 20% of the time in the summer. We thought we were going to be in the 80% category! But it was a nice ride and we got a good sense of the Alaska Range from here. Verna went on a bicycle ride after we returned to the campground and saw a female moose and calf along side the road. We stayed at an RV park about a mile from the park entrance where the Denali Princess Hotel is located. In this area there is an abundance of small shops selling art, clothing, crafts, and providing flying, hiking and rafting adventures in the park. We wandered through the various shops but found nothing of interest. Friday Verna woke early (5:30) to sunny blue skies. Sensing this was the day, we quickly dressed and hopped in the truck and drove to the viewpoint we had gone to yesterday. Today we were reward with a view of the mountain! It is about 70 miles away from here, but it was clearly visible! We are now in the 20% category and consider ourselves very lucky. And, on the way back we saw 2 bull moose grazing in a stream bed in addition to the two females and one calf that we encountered on our way to the view point.. Later in the day we went to the dog kennels in the park where they maintain several sled dog teams for use in the park. 2 million of the 6 million acres of the park is a wilderness area and therefore no motorized vehicles are allowed. In the winter the only way to patrol these areas is by dogsled. Patrols range from several hours to 5 weeks as they drive thrit sled dog teams from cabin to cabin in the back country. Since the main purpose for the formation of the park was to protect the Dall Sheep and other wildlife, patrols are necessary year-round.

Saturday, July 18, 2009 - Wednesday, July 22, 2009 Denali, AK to Fairbanks, AK   Today's statistics: Total Distance: Travelogue Total: Average Speed: Total Time:   118 2024 44 2   Miles Miles MPH Hours 38 Minutes

It was a relatively short trip today as we headed out of the park and to the capital of the north, Fairbanks. As we left Denali, we cut through the canyon at right, cut by the Nenana River. The road began roughly but several miles further on it smoothed out and remained decent most of the way to Fairbanks. The drive was a gradual downhill slope as we drove north out of the Alaska Range. We will spend several days in Fairbanks as we prepare for our trip to Prudhoe Bay on the sidecar.

On Sunday we talked with our friends Pat and Debbie Moore and learned they are coming up to Fairbanks to join us on our journey to Prudhoe Bay. Not only will this be more fun, it will also be safer for all of us. Our plan is to take two days each way to make the journey. Monday Jim got new tires for the sidecar so the bike is ready to go. Verna went for a bike ride and discovered the myriad ski trails near the university that are used as bike trails in the summer. It was a bit hot, so biking through the shaded woods was a pleasure. There was also a nice bike path on the outskirts of town so she got to view Fairbanks from all directions. Tuesday we continued our preparations for the trip north and relaxed a bit before the trip north. Pat and Debbie arrived mid-day after having gotten an extra spare tire for the trip. Wednesday we made all our arrangements (hotels), planned our meals and went shopping.

Thursday, July 23, 2009 - Friday, July 24, 2009 Fairbanks, AK to Deadhorse, AK   Today's statistics: Total Distance: Travelogue Total: Average Speed: Total Time:   509 2533 30 16   Miles Miles MPH Hours 58 Minutes

We left Fairbanks around 9 am. Pat and Debbie went to find a McDonalds and we went to fuel up. We met up in Livengood, about 70 miles north of Fairbanks where the pavement ends and the Dalton highway begins. Debbie and Verna picked some wild blueberries and raspberries, then we headed up the road. Soon after we were on the dirt road that is the Dalton Highway, a big tanker truck came flying past us, leaving us in a cloud of dust and flying rocks. This is their road; by law the trucks have the right of way. And yes, they do drive it as if they own it. We just slow down and moved over to stay out of their way the best we could. After about 20 miles we came to pavement that lasted about 10 miles. While the lack of dust was nice, it certainly wasn’t in the best of shape. The frost heaves cause it to buckle and crack and driving it is like driving a slalom course. Thankfully the weather was clear and relatively warm, so it was quite pleasant. Unfortunately, there were wildfires in the area so much of the the sky was hazy with smoke. About 1 pm we came to the Yukon River and soon after our lunch stop. As there are not many businesses along the route, you must plan carefully where you eat and fuel up. Our lunch was at the Hot Spot (photo, left), a small wayside that serves good (and big) burgers. Each couple shared one burger and then we hit the road again. Shortly after we traveld north from our lunch stop we encountered a paved road surface once again. It was paved all the way to Coldfoot.

We crossed the imaginary line of the Arctic Circle shortly after lunch. Alongside the road there is a rest area with a map showing the Arctic Circle. The photo at right shows us at this point. This is actually the second time we have gone north of the Arctic Circle by vehicle; the first time was in Norway in 2003. For those questioning the large black box on Verna’s left we will tell you that this was our break down “insurance”; just in case we we had a problem and were stranded by the side of the road we wanted to be able to protect ourselves from wild animals. Fortunately this is not something that was needed.

At this stop Pat and Debbie talked with a driver coming south who reported lots of people having flat tires just north of Coldfoot. The driver told them it was in a construction zone and he suspected that some metal was in the surface material. The afternoon ride was pleasant, although smoky. As we traveled north, the smoke increased. Lots of beautiful countryside and we were not able to fully appreciate the beauty due to the severe smoke. Several places we stopped for breaks but didn’t bother with photos.

Late in the day we arrived at Coldfoot - the only place along the road to get fuel. We filled the tanks and moved on. Just another 16 miles to go to our stop for the night. We got out on the road and almost immediately it began to rain. And the road was no longer paved. Within minutes, Jim was covered with mud from our front tire. We had to stop to clean off his face shield so he could see to drive. By the time we got to the motel, Jim was soaked and Verna was just damp from the drizzle. At left is a photo of Jim and the bike at the end of the day. unfortunately the picture does not show how muddy the bike and Jim were! Looks like we should have stopped right away to put on the rain gear. While Verna and Debbie put together a spaghetti dinner (there was a communal kitchen available for our use), Jim spent the time cleaning up. We hosed him down as best we could, then hung up the clothing in the room with the heater on, hoping it would dry by morning. Jim didn’t even bother trying to clean the bike as it would probably be more of the same in the morning, After a hot shower, a glass of wine and a hot dinner, Jim was feeling a bit better. We enjoyed a nice relaxing evening together recounting the day’s events and looking forward to more tomorrow.

We woke to overcast skies and threatening rain. We ate breakfast then packed up and headed out. This time with full rain gear! It rained lightly for awhile but was dry by the time we got to the Atigun Pass. It was still overcast, but dry. The road was in decent condition so we made good time. At the base of the steepest portion of the pass, we saw a large truck decending the pass. Pat pulled over to wait for him to pass as the hill was steep with a sharp curve at the bottom. We found that this was the best procedure when encountering these trucks. If we pulled over and slowed down, the truck drivers generally did the same. All in all, it seemed the safest method. After the pass, we were in the heart of the Brooks Range. The road proceeds through a long valley with the tall mountains looming above on either side. By now the air was a bit more clear as there were no forest fires. It was absolutely beautiful and seemed to go on forever. As we came out of this valley, we entered an area of huge rolling hills, totally free from trees. We were now so far north that trees cannot grow due to the intense cold of the winter. However, there is rampant growth of low brush. and mosquitos are plentiful! There was no wind and every time we tried to stop for lunch, we got absolutely swarmed by the mosquitoes. We did make a few stops for necessities, but finally decided to drive on through to Deadhorse without stopping; we were too dirty to get into Pat and Debbie’s car even though they were kind enough to make the offer.

One stop we did make was when Pat and Debbie saw a Grizzly bear alongside the road. It ran off as they stopped, but they spotted another a ways off. Verna took the photo at right as it was heading off. They don’t seem to want any human encounters, which is just fine by us. By about 3:15 PM we arrived in Deadhorse, the end of the road for us. We checked into our hotel which was much nicer accommodations than the night before (also a lot more money).

We had a quick bite to eat in the cafeteria (the room comes with full use of the cafeteria), then headed over to another hotel where we joined the organized tour of the oil fields. The tour included a video about the oil production and pipeline, then a bus ride to Prudhoe Bay. On the way, we saw lots of oil well heads, oil field equipment and pipes. Once at the Arctic Ocean we were able to walk around and even enter the water if we desired. Verna had to do it, and here’s the photo to prove it (left). While the water was cold, it wasn’t as cold as she expected. However, she is dressed in several layers including a down jacket and wool knit cap! We returned to the hotel for dinner which was pretty good for cafeteria food. After dinner Verna cleaned helmets, gloves, boots and equipment while Jim went outside to reposition the sidecar brake line which we found had been rubbing along the inside of the sidecar tire. While doing so, he found the sidecar brake pads were essentially worn out, so replaced them as well. the weather was not too cold (about 40 degrees F), but amazingly the sky was clear and the sun was shining

Saturday, July 25, 2009 - Sunday, July 26, 2009 Deadhorse, AK to Fairbanks, AK   Today's statistics: Total Distance: Travelogue Total: Average Speed: Total Time:   540 3079 31 17   Miles Miles MPH Hours 24 Minutes

A bit overcast today as we prepared to leave. We all got a good night’s sleep and were ready for another day. We fueled up then went to the Napa Auto Parts for brake fluid, then headed out. As Verna waited for Jim to do his shopping, she noticed the sign on the store wall for Deadhorse (photo, left). We spotted several caribou just after leaving Deadhorse. A while later we also saw a Musk Ox along the river. Several large raptors were seen, although we weren’t sure what they were. While the road was the same one we came up yesterday, it seemed a bit different from this point of view. The weather cleared as we continued along, making for lovely views. At the first rest stop, we saw that Pat & Debbie had 3 huge rock-cracks in their windshield. Pat said it happened just as we were leaving Deadhorse; he hadn’t pulled over as it was hard packed dirt with no rocks. But the oncoming truck obviously had some rocks in his tires that went flying. It was the down-point of the trip.

Coming south we had glorious views of the Brooks Range as we approached (photo, above). The mountains are impressive up close and we could barely see the distant glaciers. Today as we made our rest stops we usually had enough wind to keep the mosquitos at bay. But without any wind, they were ferocious. Even with repellent, the constant buzzing around was quite a nuisance. We either wore our helmets with the face shield closed, or we donned the fashionable head nets. We had an uneventful trip south to Wiseman where we were to spend the night again. Since it was still relatively early, we drove on to Coldfoot to fuel up for tomorrow and to visit the Arctic Visitor Center (which is why the return mileage is longer than going up). While at the fuel station, we met a young Japanese man on his bicycle on his way to Deadhorse. He had written on his panniers all the countries he has cycled in in the last 3 years and it was pretty impressive. When asked, he explained he would probably be in North America for a year, then head to South America. He has allowed himself another 2 years to travel before settling down.

We returned to Wiseman for a dinner of hot soup and garlic bread (and reindeer salami and cheese for appetizers). We hoped for a good night’s sleep, but weren’t expecting too much.We got an early start with clear weather but wore our raingear anyway. It would at least keep the dust off us. Thankfully the smoke had dissipated a bit so we could see some of the scenery we were not able to appreciate on the way up. By the time we got to our lunch stop at the Hot Spot, it was getting warm so we put away the raingear. This time we tried their pulled pork sandwich which was equally as good as the hamburger. As we got to the end of the Dalton Highway, we stopped for a photo of the road sign (right) marking the beginning of the highway. We have done it. No flat tires, no major problems, just lots of dirt and calcium chloride to wash off everything. It was worth the effort and we are both glad we did it.

Monday, July 27, 2009 - Wednesday, July 29, 2009 Fairbanks, AK         Today's statistics: Total Distance: Travelogue Total: Average Speed: Total Time:   0 3073 0 0   Miles Miles MPH Hours 0 Minutes       We needed a bit of R&R and time to clean everything up after the trip north. Jim washed the bike about 3 times and got most of the stuff off. Verna went shopping for provisions for the next leg of our journey. The clothing was readied for washing, but we decided to wait for our next stop as there was no warm water at the laundry here. Pat and Debbie headed out on Wednesday, but we opted for another day to get things organized.

Thursday, July 30, 2009 Fairbanks, AK to Tok, AK         Today's statistics: Total Distance: Travelogue Total: Average Speed: Total Time:   208 3281 42.3 4   Miles Miles MPH Hours 55 Minutes       Our first stop today was the tire shop where we got new tires all around on the trailer. We still had some tread left, but not enough to get us all they way back to the lower 48. Since we could not get the Marathon tires, we tried a new tire. As we headed south out of Fairbanks, the sky became thick with smoke. The smoke stayed with us for most of the way. As we came to the area near Moosehead Lake, Jim saw the head of a moose come out of the bushes by the side of the road. Then the large moose was on the road in front of us. Jim quickly braked and the moose kept moving, so a disaster was averted, but just barely. We couldn’t believe how quickly she seemed to come out of nowhere. We checked into the local RV park and spent the rest of the day doing laundry.

This concludes this portion of the adventure...

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