In March 2001, we arrived for the first time in Seville and we were immediately entranced. We weren’t there 3 hours and Jim was collecting phone numbers of available apartments, ready to move in for 6 months! There is a wonderful atmosphere in Seville that is truly inviting. The central part of the city (Barrio Santa Cruz) is full of twisting, narrow streets that are a delight to explore - but don’t think about it without a very detailed map. It is quite easy to take a wrong turn and end up far from where you thought you were going - but even then you can find yourself in some interesting plaza. Occasionally you will happen upon a garden courtyard like the one to the right (full of cool greenery as in the photo on the left). More often than not, the front doors will be closed, preventing the general public from enjoying the view. However, we understand that in May there is a garden competition and many will be open for general viewing.

There are many plazas, green with trees and a pleasant respite from the more built-up areas. Of course outdoor cafes abound and we never had trouble finding good food or wine. There are lots of pedestrianized streets in the central shopping area that make for a good stroll, where you will be safe from the crazy drivers. 

The 2 most famous landmarks in Seville are the cathedral and the Alcazar, which happen to be right next to each other at one end of the Santa Cruz area. The Alcazar was originally built as a fort for the Cordoban governors of Seville in 913. According to the Lonely Planet guide, the Alcazar has been adapted and/or enlarged every century since. It is a beautiful and peaceful place to visit. Unfortunately when we were there is was raining so we didn’t spend much time in the gardens and patios. The Patio de las Doncellas (above) is surrounded with delicate marble columns and intricately carved arches. The floor is paved with fine marble tiles.

As in the Alhambra, there are fine examples of mudejar plaster work, evidenced by the finely carved wall and arch at the right. It almost appears that the walls are made of lace. Evidently the same expert craftsmen that built the Alhambra were put to work creating this palace, so there are many striking similarities. We can’t imagine the amount of time a patience that must have gone into creating a place of such beauty. But we are very thankful that it has been cared for and is open for the public to see.

We found ourselves in amazement and awe as we passed from one room to the next, each with its own special treasure, like the tile floor above.

The cathedral is the second largest in Europe, being slightly smaller than St. Peter’s in Rome. It was built on the mosque that existed from the 900’s. The church actually used the mosque from 1248 when Seville fell to the Christians to 1401 when it was decided to tear down the decaying remains and rebuild. It was completed in 1507 though portions of it have been rebuilt since then. One of the more unique features is the Patio de Naranjos (patio of orange trees; picture at right) containing over 60 orange trees. This was the area where the Muslims performed their ablutions before entering the mosque.

T h e h u g e g o t h i c vaulted ceilings dominate the interior, as well as the numerous chapels that line the sides (right). In the center of the cathedral is the choir and organ, with beautiful marble base and carved wooden figures above.

The picture at left shows just the lower detail of marble arches and the lower carved wooden figures of the organ. The larger figures hang on and around the pipes above (you can see their dark profiles on the upper walls in the picture to the right).

However, the Capilla Mayor is the gem of the cathedral and is reckoned to be the largest altarpiece in the world (photo as left). 

Created from 1482 to 1564, it contains over 1000 carved biblical figures. It is of gilded and poly-chromed wood and is quite a sight to behold.

The cathedral also contains numerous famous works of art as well an impressive collection of gold and silver work. One such impressive piece is the huge silver monstrance weighing in at just over 1,000 pounds (right). It was made in the 1580’s.

In one corner of the Cathedral is La Giralda, the old minaret of the mosque. It was constructed of brick from 1184 to 1198 although the topmost parts (the belfry and above) were added in the 16th century. At left is a view of the the tower, looking up from the patio of orange trees. 

You can walk to the belfry area to get a great view of the church as well as the city (below, right). The walk is easy enough as it is a series of ramps (not steps) so the guards could ride their horses to the top! However, given the narrow corridor, I wouldn’t have wanted to have been the horse. We still haven’t figured out how the horse got turned around at the top. 

In February, 2002, we returned with our friend Nancy and found the city to be just as inviting once again. However, this time the weather was dry and clear, hence the bright blue sky behind the Giralda, left. We are sure we will be back again!

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