During our summer tour of 2003, we stopped briefly in the city of Toruń, a historic city with burghers’ mansions and gothic churches all centered around the old market square. It is the birthplace of Copernicus who spent his youth here and for whom the local university is named.

Toruń is located in the area called Pomerania which covers the north western corner of Poland, stretching along Poland’s Baltic coast from the German border in the west to the Vistula valley in the east. Poland never really controlled this area fully and gradually the German margraves absorbed the area into their realm of influence. Over the centuries, this area became a battleground among Sweden, Prussia and Poland. While bits of Pomerania were granted back to Poland by the Treaty of Versailles, the whole of the area was not returned to Poland until 1945, albeit in a devastated state. At right above is the 14th century town hall with the clock tower. In front of the hall is the statue of Copernicus. The town square is full of reconstructed burghers’ mansions, now fronted by sidewalk cafes, restaurants and small kiosks (left). We were there at lunch time and the place was full of people enjoying square and its ambiance. Sidewalk musicians entertain the crowds, some more talented than others.

The Teutonic Knights established a early outpost in Toruń in 1233 and grew quickly as a major port and trading center. By the 1280s it was affiliated with the Hanseatic League. After the 30 years war the area was returned to Poland. But in the following centuries the entire area suffered enduring Swedish invasions and Prussian domination until the early 20th century. Fortunately, Torun suffered little damage in the war and today Toruń is perhaps the best preserved Gothic town in the country.

In the center of the square sits the brick Post Office (above, left) and to the right of it in the picture, the gothic St. Mary’s Church from the late 13th century (also at right).

Off the square are several other churches from the 11th to 13th centuries. An interesting little house was the one below, right seemingly gothic in nature but updated with a baroque top. Although many later styles are represented in this town, its gothic origins are clearly present. You can understand why the town was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list.

A whimsical detail is the brass frog (above) found on the fountain in the square.

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