We arrived safe and sound in Santa Margherita Liguera (right) in April 2001 and located a one star hotel from the Lonely Planet Guide.

We ventured out in the morning after we arrived and took a ride into the mountains trying to get to the five small villages that are located along the coast south of Santa Margherita Liguera but it was cold and foggy so we decided that we would just stay another day and do this as the weather was to be much better. Later in the afternoon the rain stopped and we went for a walk about Santa Margherita Liguera. We also took a ride out to Portofino.

We had blue skies and sunshine the next day. Glad we decided to stay the extra day in order to take in the local sights. We headed down the coast to visit the Cinque Terre. This is a remote coastal area that has only recently been discovered by the tourists, so still retains some of its old-world charm. It is a haven for hikers and the hilly terrain is a network of paths connecting the different villages. There are 5 major towns that are the visitor's highlight to the region, Monteresso, Vernazza, Corniglia (at right), Manarola, and Riomaggiore (picture below). Driving by car is a bit harrowing on the narrow, twisty roads, but on the bike it is nice, if slow, jaunt (though you must watch for oncoming cars cutting the inside track on the switch backs!) Only Monteresso can you drive all the way into town. The other towns require you to park well outside and walk in. The parking issues are due to the fact that these towns were built in a very compact fashion on very steep terrain, all before there were roads leading into the area. So several of the towns don't even have any roads within them, but are a tangle of narrow, twisting passageways between buildings, many at a very steep angle or made of steps.

We decided a delightful way to enjoy the area if you are up to the exertion is to visit the 5 towns over a 2 day period by walking. We would start in Riomaggiore (the southernmost town), and walk to Manarola for lunch. Then walk to Corniglia to spend the night. Walk to Vernazza for lunch the next day, then on to Monteresso in the afternoon. After spending the night, hop the train back to your starting point. The walks between the towns take about 2 1/2 hours though are a bit strenuous due to the steepness involved. You can also visit the towns by train or by ferry during the tourist season. But by driving through the rugged terrain, we feel we got a better sense of the territory. The picture above is one small village we came across, sitting on top of the hill, with the hill below it terraced for the grape vines and olive trees. And the picture at left  gives you a sense of the terrain, with the road winding along every contour of the hills. Think of  the backbreaking labor it took to terrace all those hills!

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