Dublin

Dubin is the capital of Ireland with a population a little over one million people. We lived in Dublin for 21 months. If you are visiting, you can easily spend 3 or 4 days just in Dublin and still not see everything! But there are a few things that one must see and if you are here for just a day, use one of the hop-on, hop-off busses to make the best use of your time.

grafton streetFor those who have some time to shop, or just want to stroll with the Dubs, Grafton Street is the place to go. This is a pedestrianized area between Trinity College and St. Stephen’s Green. On a nice day, it is crowded with people, with lots of flower and street vendors on the side streets, as as buskers along the main walk

Stephen’s Green is the “central park” of the city and its 22 acres are filled with strollers, especially on sunny days. In the spring and summer, the flower beds are full of color. And the duck ponds are always a favorite with the kids. The park dates back to medieval times, was formally enclosed in 1670 and formally laid out as a park in 1880. If you are a freeman of the city (U2 just obtained this honor), you have the right to graze your sheep in the park! Luckily for the strollers, this privilege is not often exercised.

Several block to the west lies St. Patrick’s Cathedral.st patricks This is the oldest Christian site in Dublin and is the national cathedral of the Church of Ireland. St. Patrick himself is supposed to have baptized the Irish pagans in a well beside the building. Although the current structure dates from 1911, there has been a church at this site since 450. In 1320 it was the headquarters for a great university that flourished for over 100 years until it was suppressed by Henry VIII. The church is forever linked with Jonathan Swift who was dean here from 1713-45.

The other dominate Christian site in Dublin is Christchurch cathedral. This is a fine Norman church founded in 1172 by Strongbow, who has the distinction of being Ireland’s first English invader. It was restored in 1871-78, keeping faithful to the Norman style. It is high, dark and grey inside with stone sculptures, including one f Stongbow, reclining in full armour. It’s history includes the crowning of Henrey VI in 1487, while Henry VIII burned it 100 years later. It was then turned into law courts and during the time of James II became Catholic for a while (it is currently Church of Ireland)

Another must-see is the Book of Kells in Trinity College. Trinity is the oldest university in Ireland and was founded by Queen Elizabeth I in 1592. Trinity lies at the north end of Grafton Street and is easily accessible. The Book of Kells is an 8th century version of the four Gospels with elaborate scripting and illuminations. The art work is absolutely breathtaking - I can’t imagine how long it took a scribe to illustrate each page! Each day a page is turned in the book for viewing. Subsequent to viewing the Book of Kells, you are led into the the long hall of the library which is facinating in itself. The complete library contains over a half-million volumes, a figure that is always growing thanks to a copyright law of 1801 specifying that a copy of every book published in Britain or Ireland must be sent here!

For those with an interest in Irish history, a trip to Dublin would not be complete without seeing the General Post Office (GPO). This post office is the symbol of Irish freedom. Built in 1815-1818, it was the main stronghold of the Irish Volunteers in 1916 led by Padraig Pearse and James Connolly. Set afire by shelling, the building was gutted and abandoned after the surrender and execution of many of the Irish revel leaders. It was reopened as a post office in 1929 after the formation of the Irish Free State.

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