We first visited the Karlsruhe area at the end of May, 2001 when we attended the IEP3 in Kandel. We returned in mid-August, 2001 to stay and explore the area a bit more. As with our previous stay, we made Kandel our home for the duration. Kandel is just 20 minutes west of Karlsruhe and is a relatively quiet town full of half-timbered houses from the 1700’s, shops, and lots of single-family houses on quiet streets. There are gardens galore and the town is surrounded by farms and fields of wheat and corn. Of course it is easy to hop the train to Karlsruhe if you feel the need for a larger variety of sites and shops.

Karlsruhe was founded by Margrave Karl-Wilhelm in 1715. Legend has it that Margrave Karl was out riding in the forest when he stopped to take an afternoon nap. He found the place so idyllic, he decided to build a town radiating from that very spot. He planned the town to be in a fan shape with the tower of his palace in the center. The tower marks the site of his nap. Surrounding it is a circle of land full of gardens, now open to the public. We visited the gardens on a Sunday and found the locals out enjoying the sun. We understand that during the week the local workers sun themselves during the lunch hour (often in the European style for women). Sunday is a family day so we saw none of that.  There is a small steam-engine train that takes visitors around the park. so we got to see a great deal of it. Huge expanses of lawn and walkways lead from the palace to the city itself. At right our friend Michaela watches her son Jonas carefully as he has found yet another fountain. Water appears to be a universal magnet for children!

Just outside the inner circle is the shopping area, extending for many blocks and pedestrianized except for the trams on the main streets. You can find shops of every kind as well as an abundance of sidewalk restaurants and cafes. Of course there are bakeries and ice cream shops about every half-block so you don’t have to go far to get your sugar fix. It is a very relaxing way to spend the day. In the southern part of town, near the train station, is a large zoological park where families were lined up to get in, even on a weekday which is when we passed it by.

Southeast of town is the mountain of Karlsruhe providing a great view of the city on a clear day. Unfortunately, it was a bit hazy the day we were there, but it was nice to see how much of the woodlands had been left and incorporated in the city. There were only small areas where the buildings were so concentrated that no room for greenery had been left. On this mountain there is a tram that slowly climbs to the top. This is Germany’s oldest working mountain railway. The mountain itself is all park and is open to the public for hiking and recreation.

Besides being an enjoyable place to visit, Karlsruhe is known for its technical university (the oldest in Germany), many fine museums and cultural events. It is also home to the first bicycle, which was pushed along without pedals. And, it is the gateway to the Black Forest, a huge forested mountain range to the south. Perfect for motorcycles!

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