Moravia is the eastern portion of the Czech Republic and we traveled through here briefly in July 2003. Coming from Southern Poland, Brno was our first stop. Brno has been the capital of Moravia since 1641 and it was here that the botanist Mendel began the modern science of heredity at the Augustinian monastery by studying generations of peas and bees. Today it is a large industrial center and hosts many expositions and conferences. However, the old town center where most of the interesting sights exist is compact and easy to navigate.

At right is the most visible and imposing sight in Brno, the neo-gothic Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul.  The Cathedral was rebuilt in the late 19th century on the site of an older basilica and occupies the site where the city’s original castle stood. According to our tour book, in 1645 the Swedish general Torstensson who was besieging Brno declared that he would leave if his troop hadn’t captured the city by noon. At 11 am the Swedes were about to scale the wall when the cathedral bell keeper suddenly rang noon. True to his word, the general broke off the attack. Since that day the cathedral bells have always rung noon at 11 am.

On the way up to the Cathedral, we came upon a beautiful apartment building. We have no idea when it was built, but we thought it was a striking piece of architecture. As we walked around town, we found treasures such as this everywhere, as well as a few ugly block buildings left from the communist era. It seems a shame to see them side by side, but if architecture is a reflection of history, then it is probably best they remain.

In the center of town, there is a large square, full of lovely old buildings (and one block monstrosity) and the trams run right through the center, providing easy public transportation. We rode the trams around to get a view of much of the town.

In the Zelny square is where the open-air market is held and features the baroque Parnassus Fountain (right) from 1695. Carp used to be sold from its waters at Christmas. It is a wonderfully complex statue, full of strange animals and a man with a bird head covering his own in the center. We are sure there is much symbolism in this work of art, but we found nothing to explain it.

As it was late when we arrived, we were not able to visit the Capucine monastery (1651) or other sites such as the town hall or the Spilberk Castle on the hill above. So we were enjoying wandering through the streets when the skies opened up and a torrential rain storm complete with thunder and lightening put an end to our sightseeing.

It was a short but enjoyable stop and probably worth more time to visit its various sites. From here we continued west to the small town of Telč which we found to be an absolute jewel. The town was founded in the 14th century as a fortified settlement with a castle separated form the town by a strong wall. Large ponds (left) were created on either side of Telč to provide security and a good supply of fish. A fire destroyed much of the town in the 1530 so the lord of the manor ordered the town and castle rebuilt in the Renaissance style by Italian masons. After the lord’s death in 1589, building activity ceased and the town remains today much as it was at that time, seemingly caught in a time warp.

At one end of town is the Water Chateau (at right in the picture above), the castle built for the lord . As you enter the chateau, there is a small chapel (right) that sets the tone for the rest of the chateau. It is ornately decorated with gilt carvings and painting on the walls and ceiling. In the center is the tomb of the lord and lady of the chateau.

The center of town is an open, elongated square (below), full of 16th century houses, each elaborate and different, but together forming an arcade that almost runs the length of the square. And while each one is a work of art in itself, and well renovated, we might add, the view of all the houses together is absolutely breathtaking, as you can see. In the shops they sell miniature versions of each of the houses for collectors. The most elaborate in terms of detail is the black and white house pictured at left.

It is an enchanting place to visit and well worth the stop.

If you find typographical errors or have any other problems when looking at the site please contact the Webmaster describing the problem and the page involved.