Fès was the favorite of almost everyone in our tour group. The Medina or old town is the highlight, full of narrow, winding streets, colorful and interesting shops, and lots of history. The photo below is the view of Fès from the hill opposite the city. The lower right part of the city is the medina, in the center of which is the Kairaouine University established in 859. At the left, on top of the hill, is the more affluent portion of the city.

We spent the morning with a local guide showing us around the medina, wending our way through the maze of narrow walkways. After about the third turn, none of us would have been able to find our way out. Once we made a comment about getting lost and he told us when he was a child, he once got lost for 3 days. But having grown up here, he now knows every nook and cranny.

While all the shops were quite interesting, the most fascinating for us was a visit to an old medersa, built in 1280. While it is in need of restoration, the quality of the original work and materials was absolutely outstanding. The photo at left shows just a portion of the detail work that makes this medersa so special. Like most Islamic buildings, the medersa was made of the same basic materials: carved plaster (made of plaster and ground marble for long life), cedar wood (to provide a good scent and provide weather-resistance), marble, and mosaic tile work. The marble is Carrera marble from Italy and at the time the medersa was built, the Moroccans traded their sugar for the marble. We think the Moroccans got the better deal, since the sugar is long gone and the marble is still standing.

And yes, we did get drug into the carpet shop for the hard sell. This seems to be a staple on the medina tours, regardless of the city. So we take advantage of it by enjoying the views of the gorgeous carpets (Verna’s favorites are the silk ones), but firmly stick to your guns about not wanting to buy. The photo at right shows the men in our group gathering at one end, as the salesmen definitely were targeting the women for the hard sell.

At the end of the tour we were treated to views of the leather dying vats and workers. Visiting in February is good because there is little heat to generate the pungent smells of the vats that greet the nostrils of the summertime visitors. The sight is amazing. Vats of all colors, piles of skins on the vats, yellow skins drying in the sun, and clumps of wool hanging everywhere (photo left). The men are standing thigh-deep in the colorful liquids, swishing the heavy hides around and pulling them out. Others are carrying buckets of water to and from the vats, carefully balancing on the narrow edges. This is backbreaking work and we can imagine how terrible it is in the heat of the summer, as there is little shade other than that provided by the surrounding buildings.

On the outskirts of town we visited a metalworking shop and a ceramics workshop. At the ceramics factory, they were burning ground up olive pits to get the ovens hot enough to fire the clay pots and plates. They also fabricated detailed mosaic table tops of all sizes and designs. The Royal Palace was an interesting stop, although we were only able to view it from the outside.

Overall, we enjoyed our visit to Fès and readily recommend it to anyone visiting Morocco. However, you might want to consider hiring a guide to get the best views of the medina and avoid getting lost.

Click here for a slideshow of Fès.

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